Part of Reaktion Books' Edibles series, Sandwich is a short history of one of the world's most popular meals. Despite the influence of carb-limiting diets such as the Atkins and the Dukan, and increasing concerns about wheat allergies, love for the humble sandwich continues.
Wilson's claim to chart the history of the sandwich is slightly dubious. Human beings have been combining bread with other foodstuffs since time immemorial, and Asian dishes such as spring rolls could technically be put in a similar category. No-one really 'invented' the sandwich.
However, the recorded history of bread served with a filling is a surprisingly interesting subject, and Wilson gives some fascinating examples: "In the Bible, Exodus 12:8, the rules of Passover state that, 'they shall eat the flesh in the night, roast with fire, and unleavened bread; and with bitter herbs they shall eat it.'" (Page 26) The symbolic power of food is certainly a potent force, here symbolising the bitterness of slavery and flatbreads made in haste by Israelites fleeing Egypt. Such rituals are a unifying force, and show how the simplest of dishes can have deep emotional resonance.
Wilson charts how it came to be known as the sandwich, notably when the workaholic Earl of Sandwich famously asked for beef between two slices of bread. This convenience explains why it is a truly global food: it can be eaten quickly whilst walking (or even running) down the street, making it an obvious choice for an increasingly busy world. It is democratic in that it is a quick, cheap and easy meal.
However, there is a negative side to the sandwich as well. Its ease means that it does not have to be shared with others, and is often wolfed down rather quickly. There is something slightly sad about this, particularly when compared to the traditional passover meal. 'Breaking bread' has always been a custom of community and friendship, and the modern sandwich can be a somewhat lonely form of this.
The variety of wraps and flatbreads currently available attest to the global status of the sandwich. Currently enjoying a wave of popularity is the báhn mi, a pork filled roll originating from Vietnam. Though not so well known in the UK (stalls are beginning to appear at London markets), this has taken the United States and other countries by storm.
Wilson's short history provides an interesting look at international food culture through the varying forms of the ever-popular sandwich. In the crowded market of food books, her unusual angle reveals much about modern society and the everyday person's relationship with food.
The book also includes some delicious recipes from around the world - why not try a new sandwich filling? Here are some particularly tasty examples:
Indian Toasted Sandwich
"Take a tablespoon or so of any reasonably dry leftover curry – the best is cauliflower and potato or spinach bhaji. Spread the cold curry on a slice of bread. Top with cube of fried paneer (white Indian cheese), salt, pepper and perhaps some fresh coriander/red chilli/spring onion. Top with a second slice of bread and toast for 3-4 minutes in a Breville toaster. Serve with chutneys for dipping." (Page 114)
Pâté and Pear
Bee Wilson says: "I remember this sandwich as the best ever. I ate one everyday...while doing research at the old Bibliothèque Nationale on the rue de Richelieu in Paris. The sandwich consisted of smooth chicken liver pâté with a sweet pear chutney on thin slices of pain Poilâne. (Page 115)
Source:
Bee Wilson, Sandwich: A Global History (Reaktion Books Ltd, 2010)
Victoria Robinson - Victoria Robinson is a freelance article writer based in Chester, a beautiful and historical city in the North West of England. She has a ...
